Egypt's Western Desert is like no other place on Earth, writes Lee Baker.
Its other-worldly brilliant white rock sculptures framed by azure blue skies. An entire mountain of glimmering, sparkling crystals. Fossils from the depths of the ocean that unbelievably was here, millions of years ago. Majestic sand dunes to career along the tips of in jeeps and glide down on sand boards. Lush, green oases of palm trees, and steaming hot springs. Wildlife that surprisingly emerges at nightfall to your delight - like the curious desert foxes.
I had the good fortune to have chosen to come on a tour with Egypt Western Desert tours, starting at Bahariya Oasis, and leading to the New White Desert, via the Black and White deserts, the three-day, two-night trip.
It is a uniquely visually stunning and exciting landscape to explore, and I am so glad that I didn't look at too many photos before I came here. The 'forest' of white rock formations, standing like strange sentinels towering above us, was particularly striking, and I found myself amazed anew, every time I looked back at them, as I had nothing to compare them to from all my travels in Africa, the Americas or Asia. In short, this is a region that has to be seen to be believed and your trip to Egypt isn't complete without it.
The awe that you feel also extends to the canopy of stars in the night sky that you sleep under, and the mental effort at imagining the creatures that swam here, an incredible 40 million years ago. I found myself like a child again, counting the shooting stars, scooping up my new-favourite sea-shell; and it was all thanks to Loly Gamal, our guide, for instilling this delight in us, from the outset, when we arrived at the Crystal Mountain, as he held aloft one of these gems with a flourish, to shrieks of amazement.
And it continued into the evening, as he directed our eyes heavenward, correctly predicting that the clouds were clearing, and we would be rewarded by looking up as the light faded. Everyone in our group was transfixed, as we drifted off into a very sweet slumber, snug in our camel-hair blankets and sleeping bags.
When you travel with Loly as your guide, do ask him any question that pops into your head, and you will be rewarded with even more of his pearls of wisdom of the 'Mother Desert,' as he affectionately called this land of wonder. I myself was especially interested in finding out about the culture of the Bedouins, the historically nomadic people who wondered the Western Desert for centuries, looking for water.
The Bedouins may be settled in the oases along the 40-day caravan road of old (quicker with modern vehicles), but clearly the skills to navigate and sleep in this challenging terrain are still passed down, and in their blood. As Loly underlines, travelling in and sharing desert is his life, not simply his job.
That's why it feels so homely in the camps he and his team set up, I think. For we are at home, the home of his forefathers, in his Mother Desert.
